Fetched a tank of water down in the town and Oupa Hennie managed a relaxed 95km/h back with the load. Previously I struggled to get past 80km/h. Seems the valve adjustment was way past due. G also feels more alive and where I had to use 3rd gear on some uphills I now can use 4th and it keeps a constant speed.
The front shocks also made a huge difference to the handling and now much more stable when driving.
KYB - Oil - Front
Bilsteins - Gas - Rear
OEM coil springs front and rear
Have been busy the last few weeks with a bit of TLC for Oupa Hennie.
I have been driving up and down between Sedgefield / gansbaai since September 2017 every 2nd weekend. Roughly 780km return trip.
First few trips used 120l diesel and improved to 80l diesel for the same distance, route and speed.
I have added poly-tfe to the engine, gearbox, transfer case and diffs. Seems as it started to do what it's supposed to do my diesel consumption improved. I have also been adding 2stroke oil to the diesel.
1. Cleaned the rear drums and had the brake cylinders serviced / resleaved with stainless steel.
2. Replaced the rubber high pressure hoses in brake lines.
3. New metal and flexible brake lines to front calipers. Painted calipers with high heat paint. New brake pads front.
4. All door panels re-upholstered with new material and holes for speakers covered.
5. Brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder and slave serviced / resleaved with stainless steel.
6. Under body rust spots treated. Will at a later stage do a proper job of that.
7. Fitted 5 new glow plugs and a new 80A glow plug fuse.
8. New flexible hydraulic line for clutch slave cylinder.
9. New flexible lines for rear brakes and different lock.
10. Painted the center caps (Rims).
11. Painted wheel studs.
Poly-TFE is manufactured by Kal-guard and a concentrate added to oil. 10ml per l.
Can't be used in a wet clutch system (motorcycle, etc) or automatic gearbox (torque convertor) as it removes nearly all friction.
In an engine you add it after an oil service and then every 5th service 5ml/l of oil as top-up. It's a metal treatment so it does not drain with your oil and the poly particles is small enough to go through the oil filter element and won't be trapped there.
In a gearbox you use 10ml/l of oil capacity, once off.
Same for transfer case and diffs.
Important: There is no mechanic in a bottle, this will not fix any mechanical defects or failures. What it will do is decrease friction between moving metal parts to nearly nothing. It will drop your oil temperature in your transfer case, gearbox and diffs. It will protect metal moving parts.
I have been using this in all my vehicles since early 2000.
In my '93 W201 190E 2.3 turbo conversion I was able to drive from Witbank to Springs with a blown head gasget and no water in the cooling system. When the mechanic striped the engine he found the main bearings had a slight discoloration due to heat. Light polish on the crank and new bearings, new head gasget and engine was fine. Mechanic and I agreed that if it was not for the poly in the engine it would have seized driving without water for about 100km distance.
I had a Lada Niva and on my way from Jhb to Sedgefield it cracked the gearbox housing in Beaufort-West and all the oil drained out. I decided to drive as far as possible and made it to Sedgefield. About 300km without oil in the gearbox at 60km/h. The gearbox got quite hot and could feel the heat trough the floor. Was it not for the poly I believe it would have seized within a few kilometers. The gearbox was beyond economical repair and I got another reckoned one. At least I made it home safely and that was the important part for me.