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Oil leak on 290GDT Auto transmission- 722.3

Dikfrik

G-Wagen Club SA
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#1
Gents

I have noticed an intermittent oil leak on my auto box, apparently mostly when it is stationary with oil dripping of the rear of the box from the lip of the oil pan but more on the LHS. At first n noticed a few drops on the floor and then after standing over night and a day or so there was quite a patch on the floor (maybe 300mm dia) - first thought it was the pan seal and re-torqued the bolts and cleaned of the dirt of the side of the box. Drove it a small distance and parked again and for a day or two all seems better but then this morning after standing for two days there is a patch again! Looking carefully it looks like it comes from just below the selector arm shaft and the park lock switch next to it above the pan seal lip.

Anybody had an experience like this?
 

Antony

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#2
Hi Freek,

I had a similar issue on my 290. It was the shifter leakage seal that was cracked right through. I suppose they get old and hard with age. Here is a link to a video that I used to fix it.


It really was very simple. I used a large flat screwdriver to remove the old seal (careful not to damage the metal tube it sits in) and then a similar sized socket to the seal itself to tap the new seal in perfectly straight with a hammer. I didnt have the fancy seal removal and installation tool.

Watch that you don’t bend the edge of the oil pan when you take it off. That creates a new leak. There are six bolts, undo the ones on the corners first and then the two in the middle, that way you won’t bend it so easily. The thing is SOFT. It’s easier to remove and install if you first get the stabilizer bar out of the way (helpful hint #25)

When you install, make sure the gasket stays flat against the transmission, otherwise you’ll be doing it again. The bolts are only torqued to 8nm, just to hold the seal in place. Too tight and you’ll have a new leak

Call me if you have any questions

Good luck
 

Andrew

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#3
Is THAT where it leaked?

Btw jacking up the body a bit (as opposed to the chassis) gives enough clearance to remove the pan without scaring the stabilizer.
 

Antony

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#5
Originally that was the leak, until I damaged the pan, things are soft as margarine in December and bend if you look at them too long. So NOW that is where it leaks. No sign of the original leak though

New pan on order.

Thanks for the tip about jacking the body up. I didn’t think of that. The stabilizer bar swings out of the way if you undo the two clamps that hold the curved part. No need to undo the big bolts but jacking would be easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Alan

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#7
If you have the dimensions or sample go to a local Seal Centre. They usually have something compatible.
 

Dikfrik

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#8
Also feedback on this one - the seal arrived quite quickly and i tackled the job - all went well except battling to get the damn seal out! Doing it over weekend limited access to a special tool which i could not get at our best local tool shop..eventually got it out and installed the new seal using a 12mm bolt shaft inserted in the shifter shaft position, cut off just long enough to allow the 12mm socket to knock the seal in straight.. Then one more stupid mistake - did not adjust the lock-out switch properly (despite noting in the manual how to do it - but did not realize it has to be precise) and when i started up all seemed fine until i moved the selector from R to P and a short grating sound was made! Immediately lost more hair before they could turn grey thinking that i stuffed something up and then did the adjustment which is extremely easy and all was fine - all seem to run well and no leaks!

So seems to be a happy ending and thanks to everyone's advice!

PS unfortunately cannot say the same for the CV job!
 

Dikfrik

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#10
Well it has been running well since shifting same as before etc - until the grease came out of the CV due to the joint which i have not done so well ..so that had to be done again
Given advice to remove 3 of the 4 transfer case bolts which made removal of the shaft much easier but then
- the one mounting disintegrated.
Fortunately i had a spare - ordered a while ago for this car since the mounting looked suspect
Unfortunately the part is wrong - mine happened to be one of a few 461's using a different type of mount
Fortunately MB said they had one but somewhere far away so it will take a few days to arrive
Unfortunately i now need to make a special tool to remove the old bush and put the new one in

So the 290 is still on blocks..
 

Dikfrik

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#11
Another curved ball - that shift lever seal on the gearbox started leaking all by itself again so i must have damaged the new one..or it was a dud since i recall it slipping quite easily over the shaft..

I hope the Boks have more luck today..
 

Dikfrik

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#12
Ok the boks obviously did a better job than i did! Well done to them!!! It was great to see the Poms getting pommeled!
I ordered new seals (two so i have a back-up)
Thinking back how i installed the seal is I took a long 12mm bolt with a short thread (The selector shaft is 12mm dia) and cut the tread off making it just long enough to protrude out of the box to take the seal and guide the drive socket straight- i then filed the ends nice and round
I pushed the bolt shaft into the box where the real one goes and then slipped the seal over the end and then tapped the seal in with a 12mm socket and removed the bolt shaft
Questions to the more experienced Brethren
  1. Is it a good idea to use this installation method? I helps a lot to get the seal straight since the bolt shaft is aligned by the hole through the gearbox housing
  2. Is the bolt shaft (feeling smooth to the finger) maybe not smooth enough to be used as the guide and could that have damaged the seal to start leaking after about 2 weeks and about 100km drive? Shall i polish it first with fine grid paper when i re-do the job?
Advice as always is appreciated..
 

Antony

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#13
Hi Freek,

Your guide idea is a good one, I didn’t do that, I simply used an appropriately sized socket and tapped it in with a mallet. Have you pulled the seal to see if it is damaged? Not expensive to redo, just a pain as you probably have to wait again for a new seal.

Holding thumbs for you

Antony
 

Dikfrik

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#14
New seal arrives tomorrow but will probably only do the job the weekend - drained the sump though in preparation - quite curious to see if the seal has been damaged