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230GE - 240GD - Now 300GD

460LeoG

G-Wagen Club SA
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#41
Holiday pics

Thanks to Nicol at Blesfontein, a tractor filter and diesel siphoned from his tractor we could hit the dirt road again. A real adventure holiday...
 

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460LeoG

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#43
Next trip!

20l drum with 17l in went quite a distance. With a 25l jerrycan the range increased to +_ 400km! Can just imagine what can be done with the actual tanks cleaned and working:roll:

Janee...
 

Rolf Redecker

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#44
You make me jealous Leonard, with 25 l the 300CDI only goes 120 to 180 km. Should there be fuel supply problems we only see amber lights and no "boereplan" can help us through.
That is what they call progress!
Regards
Rolf
 

460LeoG

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#45
Ignition switch petrol vs diesel

Any experience with removal of petrol ignition and replacing with diesel one?

Electrician hooked up a mitsubishi solenoid valve to switch off engine, but this thing became hot after driving a while. Coupled with an electrical short I suspect this may have been the culprit, I am looking to put a diesel ignition switch in with the valve a part of the switch.

Pic 1 shows the 230GE one presently fitted. It does not have the back that would allow for valve part fitment. Another issue is it doesnt come out like the 123 or 124 ones.

1: There is no hole in the pipe that it slides into that would allow the locking pin to be pushed in for removal. (My logic tells me that it locks inside the steering column. Removal of steering wheel didnt help either)

2: The pipe is shorter and a smaller inner diameter by about 4mm than both 123 300D(loose one pic 2) and 124 300D(visible locking pin)..


I suppose fitting a manual valve could be easiest and could double as a anti theft hidden switch. Would prefer it operating right though..

Any ideas most welcome...
 

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460LeoG

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#46
Resurrecting an old thread with OM606 n/a engine transplant to same poor Igor.

Done mechanical injector pump swop from om603. Immediately I have some clearance concerns. Have imported engine brackets from 463 300GD OM603 but the sump is only 5 mm from chassis which I don't like. So that sump must come off and get modified I think. Intake manifold clears battery basket by 1.8 cm. Alternator clears steering box by 2cm. Intake manifold has just over a cm space when closing bonnet. Tight ek se.
 

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Alan

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#47
Leonard it is tight, very tight. No add to all of that a turbo, Aircleaner and aircon. But the upside is it is doable.
 

460LeoG

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#48
Often i try something that should take a few hours max. Like refurbishing the surfaces the springs mount on. Here, I suspect somebody has put an extra set of bump stops making it virtually impossible to remove springs.. Removing the upper bump stops didn't work. The bolts just turn around. Finally I gave up and cut the bump stops. Now there are the bolts which if I cut it off will forever rattle inside the mount. I can't figure how a nut got in there other than when it was assembled. I suspect a tac weld might have rusted through. Only one way to get that out...

So, new bump stops going in and some fresh paint then new springs.
 

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Alan

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#49
I know that feeling, happened to me a few times already. Worst is if you just don't have enough hours in the weekend to actually finnish and have to carry on next weekend by which time you have forgotten a few things.:(
It does look like someone welded in that bottom bump stop plate with bolt.
I think you are right with the top one being welded in place before fitment. It is not supposed to be rusting in there.
 

Alan

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#51
Hi Leonard, Noooo do not just start up and test. You will blow something.
B+ goes to battery and the D+ usually is a blue wire that switches off your charge light on the instrument panel.
You will find a connector block near the pedal assembly under the hood. as per picture
I think W could be for a rev counter?
I sent you a pic via whatsapp.
 

Vito

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#55
The "D"is from the old terminology Dynamo and "DF" is Dynamo Field. Where the D+ would go to the battery and the Dynamo regulator and the DF to the Regulator where the field excitement is controlled to vary the voltage from the old generator. The warning light of a generator would be actuated from the regulator.
Regular "analog" intelligent alternators have an internally mounted voltage and current regulator. The B+ being battery +ive and D being alternator exciter (usually via a bulb and KL15 or electronic dashboard/body computer). The W is the AC out before the diode bridge rectifier (mostly harnessed for diesel vehicles without RPM sensors) for tachometers.
More sophisticated "digital" alternators have a B+ direct to battery, LIN BUS (serial communication line to either engine management ECU or body computer) and KL15.
 

460LeoG

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#56
Thanks for all input. I am now slightly wiser and newly wired up alternator done.

Wish I knew this "W" before I modified the sump to take 603 flywheel rpm pickup... No harm having both I guess.
 

Andrew

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#57
The flywheel pickup is 1:1 and easier to calibrate. W is useful for controlling internal cab strobe lights linked to sound system.
 

Vito

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#58
The flywheel pickup is 1:1 and easier to calibrate. W is useful for controlling internal cab strobe lights linked to sound system.
You're quite right - for the most part, using the AC-tap from the alternator is for the birds. You'd need a portable tachometer and configure an ADC for your meter. Some of the more "fancy" VDO meters have dip-switches to adapt the meter to the raw incoming AC frequency.
 

W460

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#59
I acquired an original taco for my 300GD and installed using the W feed on the alternator and it works perfect.


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